Maytag Atlantis Washer Manual Remove Agitator From Washing

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In top loading washing machines, the agitator is responsible for moving the clothes through the water and detergent and is driven by the output shaft of the transmission. The output shaft is normally splined and the center of the plastic agitator will have a matching spline to ensure a tight fit. Depending on the brand of washing machine, the agitator may be a single piece unit or a two piece dual action agitator.

If the single piece agitator or the lower portion of a dual agitator does not oscillate back and forth during the wash cycle, or if the agitator can be turned on the transmission shaft, then the spline may be damaged and the agitator may need to be replaced. Most agitators are held in place with a bolt that threads into the top of the transmission shaft and is located below the softener dispenser or top cover.

Jump to Maytag Dependable Care style washer agitator - Maytag Atlantis, Norge, Performa by Maytag. The newer washer agitator just pulls out, remove cap, if no bolt, just grab hold and lift up. More washing machine parts.

Some models use a small set screw in the barrel of the agitator just above the base to secure the agitator to the shaft, while some will use a rubber o-ring to provide a tight fit. When the retaining device is removed you should be able to lift the agitator from the shaft. Agitator Directional Cogs. On top loading washers that use a dual action agitator, it is possible for the upper portion of the agitator to become disengaged from the bottom portion.

The upper part is driven by directional cogs or “dogs” that are made of hard plastic and can wear out from hard use. If the upper portion of your agitator will turn in either direction or makes a grating sound during the wash cycle, then the directional cogs may need to be replaced. Remove the softener dispenser cover to access the retaining bolt securing the top portion of the agitator.

With this removed you will be able to replace the directional cogs and the plastic bearing support. Agitator Coupler & Cap & Bolt.

Some models of top loading washers use a coupler between the transmission shaft and the agitator. The drive coupler is splined on the inside to match the transmission and splined on the outside to match the agitator. If your washer is making a grinding noise during the wash cycle and the agitator turns freely then the drive coupling may be damaged. Remove the agitator by pulling it straight up. Use caution as the fit is usually tight and force may be required to release the bond. With the agitator removed you can then unthread the bolt that secures the coupling to the transmission shaft and remove the coupling.

Before replacing the coupling, ensure that the splines on the transmission shaft are clean and free of rust. Use the new bolt and gasket that come with the coupling and inspect the agitator spline for damage as well.

Direct Drive Motor Coupling. Some top load washers use a direct drive motor coupling to transfer power from the motor to the transmission. The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of 2 plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking.

Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and not engage the transmission and clutch. A common symptom of a failing motor coupling is that the washing machine fills and drains normally but will not agitate or spin. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive assembly. Remove the pump and the motor to access the coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs. Some models of top loading washers use a belt to drive the transmission.